A day in the Wairarapa

Today Beth and I headed out on the windy road over the Rimutakas (part of a a series of hills that form the backbone of NZ) to the Wairarapa region.
Here looking back from Palliser Bay to the hills we crossed.



More views of the Rimutakas



We stopped for food in Martinborough with its various cafes and expensive boutiques. T-shirts from £50 anyone? A highlight was a visit to this vineyard and a chance to sample the local wines - needless to say a couple of bottles were purchased but they won't be making it back to the UK!

Also on the trip was a walk up a stream bed to the Putangirua Pinnacles, used as a setting in Lord of the Rings - do you remember the scene?

Layers of gravel were laid down 12 to 14 million years ago. Rain and floods have eroded these, but rocks within the gravel are harder to shift and so form protective caps. The sediment around is washed away leaving the pinnacles behind.


Here I am on the stream bed.

Video below shot on the beach on Palliser Bay. Next post will be in a week or so when I get back from my trip up the East Cape - Wairoa, Napier and Gisborne.

Around town

So I have been spending a bit of time this week getting to know Wellington - the leafy suburbs, the hustle and bustle of downtown and the wonderful areas of colour and diversity.





That is a huge ball suspended in the air by the way - the wires are very thin!




These three pictures are all of an incredible sculpted wooden bridge near the sea front.



One day I took the train out to the suburb of Petone. Jackson Street has a great collection of secondhand shops, boutiques, cafes etc. On a side road is the Lighthouse Cinema, part of a small chain and like its British counterpart a real art house haven.

The film I had intended to see (Departures) was sold out as the screen only had 10 seats! So I settled instead for Summer Hours http://movies.nytimes.com/2009/05/15/movies/15hour.html and as the film was about to start I was escorted into the screen. On entering I did wonder if I had trespassed on an outing of the Petone W.I. as a group of well dressed older ladies looked at me as if I had just barged into their front room. However it was a weekday afternoon and the film a reflection on the nature of art... The seats were roomy 2 person numbers with cushions and the film palatable. Don't think Juliette Binoche suits blonde though! Hope to return there for more films later.

These 2 guys (or possibly gals) were hanging out while the driver got his lunch at the bakery and took a keen interest in everything going on in Jackson Street.


Today I wandered along Cuba Street, close to the city centre. Most of it pedestrianised and filled with more cafes, a record shop, book shops, tattoo parlours, the lot in fact. The side streets had a lot to offer too judging by these signs directing the passers-by to deviate from the main drag.


Some wondreful colour too

The bucket fountain on the left is sure to splash unsuspecting new arrivals

I had a great lunch of rice with a tofu vegetable curry in a small Chinese place. The couple had come here 20 years ago from Malaysia. The lady told me she was vegetarian too and that all the food is also vegan. A good place to return to I think, plus lots of sidestreets still untrodden.
Tomorrow off for a leisurely walk and a visit to some of the wineries...

Map of walk

Here's a map of the last walk. The first 2 are j-pegs from Google Earth and the third is embedded from Google maps. If anyone can tell me how to embed the Google earth version then I would be grateful.









View Larger Map

Tararua biscuits

This is the Tararua biscuit, Mt Holdsworth being in the Tararua range. A hearty snack that was very welcome.

Here's the recipe:
2.5 cups rolled oats
1.5 cups flour
1 cup sugar
1 cup butter
1 tablespoon molasses
1/2 teaspoon salt

Cream the butter, mix with the other ingredients. Add enough water to make a stiff, non-sticky dough. Roll out dough on four dusted board to thickness of 1cm and cut into squares/rounds. Bake at 150 degrees centigrade for 10 to 15 mins or until golden but not brown.

Mount Holdsworth

Mount Holdsworth Circuit - 5/1/10

Nick and I set off at 7am from Wellington with the promise of a good day ahead from the weather forecasters. With a stop for petrol and refreshments at a French bakery (pain au chocolat, yum) we were ready to walk by 9am. The start was Holdsworth Lodge with a simple campground by the river. Lovely spot.
From the first look out point we could see the summit, the rounded bump to the left of the picture. Just below it is Powell Hut which you can see if you zoom in.


Here I am at the look out with the summit and Powell Hut in the background. The cloud still clearing, but this was good as the sun didn't beat down on us too much on the way up. Also we were well shaded by the trees.


Here's the view looking back down from just above Powell Hut. Imagine waking up here and having a cup of tea with that vista in front of you! It has gas cookers and a wood burning stove, plenty of fresh water from the rooftop collection system and 32 bunk spaces with mattresses. The DOC (Department of Conservation) maintain these huts for walkers. There are nearly a thousand of these across the country and 3 on the 24km stretch we covered. So you can really go at a leisurely pace if you need to. This is rated as an easy tramp by the DOC for that reason. I prefer the guidebook designation as moderate-demanding for the one day circuit. We met a few other people at the hut, on their way down or like us having a break. The next up was a young couple - he was belting along and she toned down the expletives on seeing us!


At the top! A 900m climb from the start point. Don't worry, that is a sunhat I have in my hand and I did use it most of the way! Virtually no wind up here - we certainly picked the right day as it is 1470m above sea level. The final 50m walk to the summit is a small spur off the main track. As we came back down the young couple arrived at the junction and true to Nick's prediction the conversation went like this:
Him - Are you coming to the top?
Her -Do I have to?
Him - No.
Her - Well I'm not doing anything I don't have to!

We were soon overtaken by the couple and watched them recede into the distance as we marched along the ridge. Up above the tree line the views were impressive. We could see across to the sea and Kapiti Island on the east coast and here back towards the summit.

Here looking down to the west and the Hutt Valley where we started from. Both felt a little light headed at one point!


Here looking back towards Jumbo where the path plunged back into the trees and we made a steep descent meeting a few people heading up to the Jumbo Hut. Didn't envy them the climb but it was hard work on the knees going down and continually looking out for the little orange markers as the path petered out here and there.


The last hour and half was following this path by the river, very happy to be on the flat again.


Lots of bridges to cross (and many rivers).


Here is a link to Google map of NZ - we were near Masterton NE of Wellington.

http://maps.google.co.nz/maps/mpl?ie=UTF8&moduleurl=http:%2F%2Fmaps.google.co.nz%2Fintl%2Fen_nz%2Fhelp%2Fmaps%2Fholidays%2Fmapplet.html&mapclient=google&z=6

A quick video panorama of the view from the look out below Holdsworth.



We were back at the car by half six - nine and a half hours of tramping with minor stops!
The next stop was the best - a cold beer and some chips in Greytown. They don't ask you what you want on your chips here, so if you forget no vinegar or sauce.
A fantastic day and a great introduction to tramping. A few sore muscles the next day but no lasting damage. Have just found this site:
http://www.tramper.co.nz/?
which lets you look for people to walk with. Will give that a go and see what transpires. Planning a trip away to the Napier/Gisborne area next week.

Kaukau

So the first hill was Kaukau. That's the one with the big mast on it we can see from the house here. Beth and I left the kids with Nick at the park (and a very tempting outdoor pool) to do a 2 hour loop onto the ridge and back to the house.
Quite windy at the top!


View from the top back over Ngaio, the Wellington suburb where I am, just down from the flat reservoir on top of the hill in the middle of the picture.


Looking down to Ngaio and over to the centre of town.


One of the many wooden houses in the area.


Rather nice house nearby. Some have their own little funiculars as the hills are so steep!


Next post will be about my walk up Mt Holdsworth...

Wellington

I have arrived...
After about 36 hours of travelling via Amsterdam and Kuala Lumpur I am here in Wellington. I had a few hours in Auckland and was immediately reminded of the friendly laid back manner of the kiwis. From the official but not officious customs and immigration staff (lessons for the US perhaps) to the girls giving out bus information. A toasted falafel baguette was a welcome change to eating off a tiny tray (vegetarians do get served first though on the plane!) and the lady serving was full of beans about her plans for New Year.

The flags outside the excellent and gigantic (and free) Te Papa museum are a reminder of just how close this place is to home in many ways. There was an exhibition on Scots in New Zealand which featured muisc from a band called Ben the Hoose with a young Orkney chap on fiddle who was inspired to take traditional instruments seriously after a attending a concert by Shetland group Rock, Salt and Nails.


First few days have been spent with the family, chilling out and getting over the journey. This place down on the waterfront is a taster of things to come! Planning a hike this coming week with Nick. Looking online at some of the Great Walks the Milford trek is booked up til April! But there are plenty more...


Wellington is exposed to a lot of wind, but the locals are very hardy all sitting outside and walking about in shorts and sandals and even bare feet sometimes! It was about 20 degrees c. here but 34 across on the other side of the island out of the wind. There is a huge natural harbour from where the ferries cross to the South Island. Above the marina is the look out point of Mt Victoria. The big building to the right on the waterfront is the museum.


This is the view from Mount Victoria onto the harbour and downtown area. As you can see there are lots of hills here. I am staying in Ngaio (Ni-o) which is over the lower hill in the right of the picture with views to the ridge line beyond.


So here I am on Mt Victoria. Will have to take a sun hat next time - the sun is pretty strong here when it is out.

This is the view of the ridge from the deck of the house. Lots of wooden buildings with decks and verandas clinging to the hills. Lovely in summer but mostly built without insulation and cold in winter!
Busy planning trips to various parts of the country but for now enjoying being Uncle Sorley and hanging out with the family.

(If you want to see the photos full size just click on one and then hit the back button to return)