I travelled across on a glorious day, train to Inverness, then bus down to Fort William and train again to Mallaig. From there a small boat to Inverie on the Knoydart peninsula. I immediately set off getting some nice views back to the village:
 |
| Looking south from the beach where I camped the first night. |
 |
| Sunset |
 |
| Sandaig |
The walk the next day along the coast was easy going and very pleasant. Views of the islands including Rum, Eigg and of course Skye.
 |
| Rum and the Point of Sleat (Skye) |
 |
| Sleat with the Cuillins looming behind - a view I never got in all the years there. |
|
|
|
In the settlement of Airor I had a nice chat and cup of tea with a bloke repairing some solar panels. A lot of folk from Skye settled here in the nineteenth century after they were cleared from the island.
 |
| Creels at Airor |
|
|
The road ended at Airor and became a footpath leading to Samadalan and Inverguseran where a track comes in from Inverie through the centre of Knoydart.
 |
| Eilean Samadalan and farm at Inverguseran. Looking north to Skye and Sandaig of Gavin Maxwell fame. |
 |
| Fancy haircut or punk sheep. |
 |
| Shadowman was there too! |
 |
| Looking down onto Croulin on the north side of Knoydart |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
| Enjoying a cuppa soup and reading about John Muir. |
At Croulin, where there are no roads nor even a track, I talked to a prawn fisherman who lives in one of the two houses there. Some lovely views towards Skye.
 |
| Sleat and the Cuillins |
The next day was not so sunny but still pleasant. I had planned to walk inland around Priest's Rock but had been advised by the fisherman that I could clamber around the base - not easy with a rucksack!
 |
| Priest's Rock - Creag an t-Sagairt |
Found out that Taggart means priest!
 |
| Fishfarm on Loch Hourn at Scamadale |
 |
| Holly tree and ruin at Ceum an Doill |
 |
| Beach rope |
Heading south again there were great views to Arnisdale and the hills behind the village across Loch Hourn.
 |
| Eilean a Phiobaire (piper's island) with Beinn Sgritheall above Arnisdale |
There was more hospitality, this time from a 77 year old gentleman who regularly holidays here, canoeing in from Kinochourn and making camp by the sea - I left with 2 muesli bars!
 |
| Lichen |
I camped for the last night at Inver Dhorrcail - it finally rained a lot that night. However I was dry inside my new tent, weighs only 1.3kg!
It rained a lot the next morning too as I trudged through Barrisdale and over the Mam Barrisdale to Inverie.
 |
| Loch an Dubh-Lochan from ruin at Torcuileainn |
However as it had dried up by the time I reached the loch I left most of my gear and headed up onto the ridge. There wasn't the time (or the energy) to tackle the 1000m of Ladhar Bheinn, but the views were good.
 |
| Skye from Mam Suidheig |
 |
| Luinne Bheinn with Loch an Dubh-Lochain and ruin |
I didn't quite realise how Rum dominates the view from the edge of Inverie:
 |
| Rum from Inverie |
The community buyout 12 years ago led to the creation of the Knoydart Foundation. I stayed in their bunkhouse on the last night. The 10th anniversary was celebrated with this totem pole. A new pier with grass roofed 'terminal' has made Knoydart more accessible.
 |
| Totem pole and pier |
 |
| Inverie |
The Od Forge, Britain's most remote pub, was packed, a favourite haunt of yachties.
 |
| Old Forge pub |
 |
| Communications |
The phone box only takes cards but a handy sign tells you these are not for sale here, however you can use the phone in the post office when it is open!
 |
| signage |
Back in Mallaig we passed the Western Isles. A new wheelhouse but the same boat that we moved to and from Rum on all those years ago.
 |
| The Western Isles |
So all in all a 100% successful mission! Definitely worth a visit. Have a look at their
website for details.
