Friday 22 March 2013

Taking the early train to Inverness and then the bus  to Skye I got the ferry across to Raasay and arrived at Grant's house in time for a late lunch:

Grant's House
We then set out along the single track road with only the locals for company:


Nadia and Sorley
Sorley and Grant

 From the road we walked along a gorge to Hallaig, made famous in Sorley Mclean's poem of that name:

Time, the deer, is in Hallaig Wood
There's a board nailed across the window
I looked through to see the west
And my love is a birch forever
By Hallaig Stream, at her tryst
Between Inver and Milk Hollow,
somewhere around Baile-chuirn,
A flickering birch, a hazel,
A trim, straight sapling rowan.
In Screapadal, where my people
Hail from, the seed and breed
Of Hector Mor and Norman
By the banks of the stream are a wood.
To-night the pine-cocks crowing
On Cnoc an Ra, there above,
And the trees standing tall in moonlight -
They are not the wood I love.
I will wait for the birches to move,
The wood to come up past the cairn
Until it has veiled the mountain
Down from Beinn na Lice in shade.
If it doesn't, I'll go to Hallaig,
To the sabbath of the dead,
Down to where each departed
Generation has gathered.
Hallaig is where they survive,
All the MacLeans and MacLeads
Who were there in the time of Mac Gille Chaluim:
The dead have been seen alive,
The men at their length on the grass
At the gable of every house,
The girls a wood of birch trees
Standing tall, with their heads bowed.
Between The Leac and Fearns
The road is plush with moss
And the girls in a noiseless procession
Going to Clachan as always
And coming boack from Clachan
And Suisnish, their land of the living,
Still lightsome and unheartbroken,
Their stories only beginning.
From Fearns Burn to the raised beach
Showing clear in the shrouded hills
There are only girls congregating,
Endlessly walking along
Back through the gloaming to Hallaig
Through the vivid speechless air,
Pouring down the steep slopes,
Their laughter misting my ear
And their beauty a glaze on my heart.
Then as the kyles go dim
And the sun sets behind Dun Cana
Love's loaded gun will take aim.
It will bring down the lightheaded deer
As he sniffs the grass round the wallsteads
And his eye will freeze: while I live,
His blood won't be traced in the woods.

It's a beautiful and haunting place. We walked though the birch wood and had our picnic in the ruins of the township:


Dun Caan from Hallaig

Grant and Barkley looking to the mainland

Then back to the house with it's views of Glamaig:



Shadowfriends

on the beach
On the beach with Skye behind

Glamaig and ferry terminal

Monkey puzzle!?


 Then the next day back on the ferry (soon to be replaced with the world's first hybrid ferry), bus and train. I will be back...