Kallispell and Ashley Lake, Montana

The next day Mark showed me around the area and we went to look at the school he worked in til his recent retirement (his wife was librarian there). The janitor was in so we got to look inside. I was interested to hear how they financed extensions by setting up a financial bond, essentially borrowing money and paying it off over time. Most of the school funding is raised locally through things like property taxes. None of it looked tacked on and there were no portacabins!

They had opted for big corridor spaces and partitions that slide up into the ceiling so that classes could break out into the central spaces (which also doubled as extra eating space at lunch time) but it seems that this has fallen out of favour as an approach.

The school has grown massively in recent years as more and more people are moving to the area. This of course has meant more development and house prices being beyond a lot of local working people. They have also found it hard to get support staff when wages haven't kept up with those in other types of work.

The various areas of the school had been given thematic names, this was the library and the toilets were labelled relief!

And this is the principal's office - no hiding away for the headteacher!

Next we headed out along an unsealed road to the family get away on Ashley Lake. Check out the view from the upper deck. The family built the 'cabin' back in the 1980s but prices have skyrocketed here with a basic cabin going for $800,000 recently!

There are houses all along the shore. The lake itself is at about 3,500 ft. So a bit cooler than down in the valley and none of the humidity I experienced back east. 

They have a boat and a dock. The water was very pleasant. Perfect for cooling off and for all the grandkids to play in. Of course we got to go out for a spin and a tow on the inflatable.

That's me clinging on with a couple of the kids

Walking here is tricky unless you are on a public path. There are No Trespassing and Private Property signs everywhere. However I was shown a track that took me to the top of the hill with great views. Saw lots of butterflies. 

Road end signs

Huckleberry scone

I didn't know that no-one has managed to cultivate huckleberries so you have to go out and collect them! This lovely confection was made by Mark's daughter-in-law Kate.

Amtrak Empire Builder

32 hours and 1627 miles from Chicago to Whitefish Montana. Most of that was crossing prairie with corn giving way to wheat and cattle. I checked my big bag in again, just like at the airport, ready to collect at the other end. In fact Union station has luggage carousels and the bags take just as long to arrive.

Arrivals and departures at Union Station

There is quite a bit of luggage space in the carriages too but the best thing is the leg room. I could stretch my legs right out and only just touch the seat in front. There is a foot rest bar that pops out in front and a cushioned leg support that swings out from under the seat. The seat itself can tip back a long way so I got a decent sleep. There are sleeper cars too but they are pretty expensive. I bought a 30 day Amtrak pass for $500 dollars which gives 10 journeys, very good value.

Leg room

Station break

The trains do often have delays but on a long journey will usually make up the time. At some stations there is a chance to get out and walk around, particularly when there is a crew change or refuelling. The carriages on the Empire Builder were all double deckers.

Observation car

One great thing is the observation car. This end is outward facing seats and at the other end there are tables. The cafe car is down below so you can bring your food beverages up here and enjoy with the view.

Old steam locomotive

Williston, North Dakota

A lot of grain towers along the way. And a fair amount of decay in some places, especially all the old heavy industry outside Chicago. And in the country the usual abandoned vehicles. One house had quite a collection but they had carefully cut the grass around them! 

Typical view, North Dakota

Into Montana

Big skies

The mountains eventually started to appear on the horizon. Very quickly the landscape changed and we were amongst tree clad hills, gorges and mountain ranges.

Mountain reflection

The sun catches the hill tops as the day ends. Within a couple of hours we had reached Whitefish where I was met by my distant relation Mark Wilson. His Mainland grandmother was related to my Manson great-grandmother. It was 10.30pm and I was ready for a shower and a good night's sleep.

Chicago day 2

A day of 95% humidity. Sweating just thinking about moving. One thing I've noticed is how cars stop for pedestrians. Most junctions have white striped pedestrian crossings and as you approach the cars slow down and give way. 

Took a walk through this park. There were lots of Sunday morning dog walkers and a fenced in dog play area complete with shallow pool and fountain. As I passed a church with the doors wide open I heard the sound of the congregation calling out in response to the preacher. 

Street art

Frank Lloyd Wright's own home in Oak Park, Chicago. Designed when he was 21 and built with a $5000 loan from his employer.

Some details from Frank Lloyd Wright's house and studio in Chicago. Again it has been restored after years of neglect so felt more like a museum than a home. 

This was the entertaining room on the top floor which had a balcony to watch plays put on by his children. It also had a grand piano built into it.

His studio where his students and employees worked. The balcony level is held up by a series of chains. 

The Oak Park area around the house has many more houses designed by FLW:

Arthur B Heurtley house

Laura Hale house

Peter A. Beachy house

Frank Thomas house

Hills-Decaro house

Nathan G Moore house

This one was a special request to be in an English Tudor style. 

Main hall in Chicago's Union Station.

And on to the Empire Builder heading for Whitefish, Montana. Next stop after Glacier Park. Only about 30 hours from Chicago! 

Chicago Day 1

I last spent time in Chicago in 1989. Back then we went to a comedy club, ate at the home of deep pan pizza and re-enacted Ferris Bueller at the top of the Sears Tower. This time I booked a couple tours. First of all I had to negotiate the transit app and train disruptions with replacement buses. The staff at the station were so helpful and happy. There seemed to be loads of them to help get everyone where they needed to be and with a smile too. On the way back one employee even had a microphone out and was wishing everyone a happy Saturday! 

First I visited the Robie House designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and completed in 1910 on a budget of  $60,000 - thirty times the average house price at the time. It's considered to be one of the best of his Prairie style buildings (the Prairie school sought to create something uniquely American). 

It was only a family home for 16 years and suffered when it became a student dorm for the nearby seminary. Therefore it is shorn of a lot of its original furniture and had none of the warmth of the Samara House (and you couldn't touch anything!)

Brick and iron beams used to create the overhangs with greenery all around and lots of windows. 

Beneath the projecting roof is the 'prow' at the end of the sitting room.

Staff quarters above a triple garage

Entrance stairs from lobby to the main floor. FLW hid house entrances and squeezed people in so they emerged into the open space of the house proper.

Light fittings designed to cast shadows.

Recessed light panels.

Sitting room with central chimney and fireplace.

'Prow' of the sitting room.

In the afternoon I headed through Millennium Park to take a boat tour on the Chicago River and Lake Michigan.

There were a lot of boats of all sizes out there including kayaks, pedal boats, big cabin cruisers, jet skis, pedal boats and more than a few hire your own party boats with revellers starting early. The Riverside Walk is lined with eateries and bars, all packed.

I was having an early night though.

Skyline with the Sears Tower in the centre - or Wills Tower as it is now called.

The striking St Regis is the world's tallest building designed by a woman and contains a missing floor near the top to allow the wind to pass through. 

Reflections.

Marina City built 1960s. Cars have to be parked by specially trained valets. I always do that anyway.

The Bean or Cloud Gate sculpture in Millennium Park. Can you spot me?